The truly stupendous Amiens Cathedral at once takes hold of the soul -- it is one of the finest churches raised to the Glory of God. Constructed from 1220-1270, a short period for a Gothic cathedral, this lovely church is renowned for its unusual unity of style. Like other Gothic churches of its day, the architects were always trying to maximize the internal dimensions, reaching up to the heavens, in order to allow for more natural light while soaring to new heights of construction.
This stunning cathedral is not only renowned for its light and quality and quantity of its thirteenth century Gothic art. But also for housing for many centuries the head of St. John the Baptist (one of three reputed in the world). The relic was first brought to Amiens in 1206, from Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire. That was a difficult time in the aftermath of the Fourth Crusade.
Having such a renowned and audacious relic in Amiens acted as the impetus to build a new cathedral worthy to receive the honor as well as the sheer volume of pilgrims that were expected to pass through its doors. Indeed, thus through the centuries, pilgrims came from everywhere to visit Amiens in order to see the sacred relic and to give honor to St. John the Baptist. The cathedral therefore became the custodian of one of the most important relics, where pilgrims flocked on walking pilgrimages, especially on the feast days of St. John the Baptist. A renowned pilgrim who came here included King Louis IX, visiting in 1264.
Unfortunately, the sumptuous reliquary and the skull both went missing in 1793 during the tumultuous French Revolution, as with many relics in France. However, a recreation was made in 1876 by a Paris jeweler, who was able to use some of the original materials. The rock-crystal reliquary is today preserved with a gilded silver tray adorned with semi-precious stones and an enamel and silver mask. The nineteenth century recreation contains a replica of the head and is displayed in a side chapel on the north aisle.
The French Revolution was a dreadful time of destruction of Church property. As with other churches across France, Amiens Cathedral suffered considerable vandalism. Many of the statues were decapitated and smashed. Various notable items were taken, such as the furnishings, furniture, fittings, and anything of value. Part of the cathedral was even used by the revolutionaries as a storehouse. Although most of the reliquaries were lost during the Revolutionary madness, some were later returned.
In the eighteenth century, the center of the interior of the Cathedral was redesigned in the Rococo style, reflecting changing tastes at that time in the wake of the Council of Trent. A new main altar was therefore installed in the Baroque style. This included in 1768 the monumental Baroque screen that was placed behind the altar. This magnificent work of sculpted and gilded wood represents heaven with cherubs and rays of light, clearly influenced by Bernini's work in St. Peter's Basilica.
Visitors often visit on the Feast of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist, celebrated on June 24th. He is the patron of the Order of the Malta and so members of the Order often make their way here on the feast day for Solemn Mass at the altar of the reliquary. For those planning a pilgrimage, arrive the day before, the traditional Vigil of St. John the Baptist, also a special day to visit and pray at this sacred place of pilgrimage.
God bless the Kingdom of France, aka the "Eldest Daughter of the Church." The French Catholics are our elder siblings in the Faith.
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