An Embroidered Rochet from the Late Seventeeth or Early Eighteenth Century

The Cleveland Museum of Art has an interesting object within their collections which belonged to a late seventeenth or early eighteenth century prelate. Now the Museum itself identifies this as being the alb but there is a question here about the accuracy of that designation insofar as the form of this particular piece of vesture is more closely akin to that of a rochet than that of an alb I would contend. It has the tight fitting sleeves and snug, slitted neckline of a rochet for example, but more important than these features is the presence of a fixed, prelatically coloured lining -- a feature than an alb does not have. No doubt the length of this piece may be confusing, which is admittedly more akin to what we are accustomed to seeing with an alb than a (modern) rochet, but it is important to remember that in some historical instances the rochet was indeed longer like an alb, much in the way a surplice could also be. (See our article, A Rare Look at an Exquisite, Full Length Rochet From the 1600's for an example of this.)  

Whatever the case, this particular piece of vesture is made of Spanish embroidered linen dated to circa 1690.  Of particular note are the inclusion of embroideries on the upper linen portion, a rarely seen inclusion. This inclusion is certainly suggestive that whomever this was made for, was of a particularly high or noteworthy prelatical office.

As far as the lace itself goes, it is identified as a type of lace known as "Brussels lace" dated to approximately the year 1710. One can see clearly here the purple lining that peers through the lace, the particular colour of which was strictly guided by ecclesiastical protocols in relation to the wearers particular hierarchical rank as well as whether is was for regular versus penitential/mourning use. 

Here is perhaps a better view of the overall design:

If I am correct and this is in fact a rochet rather than an alb, this particular piece of vesture would have been worn with the choir dress of the prelate; namely,  over the prelate's (coloured) choir cassock and over top of the rochet itself would have been worn the mozzetta and/or mantelletta -- which would depend on the particular rank of the prelate wearing it. 

-------

Do you like Liturgical Arts Journal's original content? You can help support LAJ in its mission and vision to promote beauty in Catholic worship either by: 

Making a one-time donation or

Subscribing monthly/yearly 

You choose the amount! Your support makes all the difference.