The truly stupendous Amiens Cathedral at once takes hold of the soul -- it is one of the finest churches raised to the Glory of God. It was constructed from 1220-1270, a short period for a Gothic cathedral, giving it an unusual unity of style. Like other Gothic churches of its day, the architects were always trying to maximize the internal dimensions, reaching up to the heavens, in order to allow for more natural light.
This stunning cathedral is not only renowned for its light and quality and quantity of its thirteenth century Gothic art. But also for housing many centuries the head of St. John the Baptist (one of three reputed in the world). The relic of the head was first brought to Amiens in 1206, from Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire, in the aftermath of the Fourth Crusade.
Having the audacious relic in Amiens acted as the impetus to build a new cathedral worthy to receive the sheer volume of pilgrims that were expected through the centuries. Indeed, thus through the centuries, pilgrims came from everywhere to visit Amiens in order to see the head of the St. John the Baptist. The cathedral therefore became the custodian of the relic, where pilgrims especially flocked on the feast days of St. John the Baptist. Pilgrims included King Louis IX who came in 1264.
Unfortunately, the sumptuous reliquary and the skull were both went missing in 1793 during the tumultuous French Revolution, as with many relics in France. However, a recreation was made in 1876 by a Paris jeweler, who was able to use some of the original materials. The rock-crystal reliquary is today preserved with a gilded silver tray adorned with semi-precious stones and an enamel and silver mask. Today the nineteenth century recreation contains a replica of the head. It is displayed in a side chapel on the north aisle.
The French Revolution was a difficult time. As with other churches across France, Amiens Cathedral suffered considerable vandalism. Many of the statues were decapitated and smashed. Various notable items were taken, such as furnishings, furniture, fittings, and anything of value. Part of the cathedral was even used by the revolutionaries as a storehouse. Although most of the reliquaries were lost during the Revolutionary madness, some were later returned.
In the eighteenth century, the center of the interior of the Cathedral was redesigned in the Roccoco style, reflecting changing tastes at that time in the wake of the Council of Trent. A new main altar was therefore installed in the Baroque style. This included in 1768 the monumental Baroque screen that was placed behind the altar. This magnificent work of sculpted and gilded wood represents heaven with cherubs and rays of light, clearly influenced by Bernini's work in St. Peter's Basilica.
Visitors often visit on the Feast of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist, celebrated on June 24th. He is the patron of the Order of the Malta and so members of the Order often make their way here on the feast day for Solemn Mass at the altar of the reliquary. For those planning a pilgrimage, plan also to arrive the day before, the traditional Vigil of St. John the Baptist, also a special day to visit and pray at this sacred place of pilgrimage in France, aka the "Eldest Daughter of the Church."
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