A Rich History Spanning 800+ Years
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre happens to be the oldest and smallest church in Paris. It was the center of university life during the time of St. Thomas Aquinas. It is believed Aquinas and Dante would have prayed here and that academic assemblies were held here. For its first three centuries, parishioners were made up of the students and eminent professors.
At that time the classes in philosophy were actually held inside the oldest remaining part of the church. Although adjoining buildings have not survived, the church remains, granting a rare glimpse of Medieval times in Paris. This is especially significant because the Gothic style was new when the church was constructed, showing early principles of the now famous design. It is the only worship space from that epoch in Paris to have endured the centuries of change.
The church was built under the reign of King Louis VII, the founder of the University of Paris and of Notre Dame Cathedral. The original design and architecture would have been inspired by the Cluniac monastic movement in France, a fascinating period in history that witnessed the glory of the High Middle-Ages.
That was an incredible period of history, when the reality of Western Christendom was at its height. Christendom was a living society of Christian peoples, united by a common religious faith and a common political allegiance. Everyone at the University of Paris, coming from multiple lands, shared a common Latin Christian culture. This represented an ideal unity, when the whole Christian people were united in a common Faith and obedience to a common religious set of laws.
Visiting here captures the imagination, conjuring up images of Aquinas teaching scholastic philosophy and theology at this very site, as a lived intellectual discipline and as a science. The pursuit of knowledge flourishing and nourished by prayer, disputation, mentorship, and a deep reading of the traditions of the Church.
A Long Period of Decline and Resurrection
The church was closely associated with the nearby school of Notre-Dame Cathedral and the University of Paris (Sorbonne College), whose charter was confirmed by the Pope in 1215. Things changed in the seventeenth century when Cardinal Richelieu transferred the Sorbonne to a new campus and had a new chapel constructed.
This change caused Saint-Julien to enter a long decline. During that period, the upper part of the nave was rebuilt, made into a barrel vault. The two western bays in the nave were demolished and a northwestern facade was added, all greatly changing the appearance of the church. The northern aisle was thankfully preserved with its historic Gothic rib vaults.
Amidst the storm of the French Revolution, the church was closed and turned into a storage depot for salt. It was listed for demolition, and suffered even more neglect as a result. Finally, in 1826 the building was returned to church authorities. Thankfully, it underwent a period of restoration and preservation.
Since 1889, Saint-Julien has been granted to the Melkite Greek Catholic community in Paris. Visitors will notice the majestic iconostasis made of wood - a splendid work of art. Tourists flock here each day as the church is thankfully open for prayer. Baptisms are sometimes celebrated here as well. It is also a lovely venue for weddings.
A Romanesque and Gothic Masterpiece
Construction began in the twelfth century, between 1165-1170 in typical Romanesque style. However, there was an earlier sixth century church on the site before, meaning this location has been a location of constant prayer and worship for a great many centuries, dating back at least to the 500s.
While part of Saint-Julian is Romanesque, most of its architecture is primarily Gothic, a typical mix that is sometimes seen in France as these churches were often a conglomeration, added on to in stages, with various additions over the years. The last structural work was done in the nineteenth century -- over seven hundred years of work are on display.
A Beautiful Location and Memorable Visit
The location of Saint-Julian is in an excellent little pocket neighborhood, in the famous 5th arrondissement. It is on the left bank of the Seine River, in the lovely old Latin quarter of Paris with cobbled streets and charm galore. Lots of lovely restaurants and other churches within walking distance.
The park and garden next to the church host the best view of Notre Dame Cathedral. The park is called the Square René Viviani. The oldest tree in Paris is here, a locust tree planted in 1602 by the gardener-in-chief of three consecutive kings: Henry III, Henry IV, and Louis XIII.
We encourage readers to visit here the next time you find yourself in Paris. The acoustics are phenomenal. The Sunday Divine Liturgy at 11:00 am is celebrated with great pomp and reverence. It is also a great church to spend time in for quiet prayer. Each years, thousands of visitors walk by, while few can fathom the immense importance of this gem of inestimable value.
Further, visitors are encouraged to develop a devotion to the patron, Saint-Julien of Le Mans. He was a bishop who was greatly revered in the Middle-Ages. His feast day is celebrated on January 27th. The Roman Martyrology has this interesting tidbit on his life: "At Le Mans in France, the death of St. Julian, first bishop of that city, whom St. Peter sent tither to preach the Gospel." He is entombed in the mighty Cathedral of Le Mans, situated southwest of Paris.
