The 'Hall of Popes' Vestments at Santa Maria Maggiore


The Patriarchal Basilica of St. Mary Major has dominated the city of Rome for sixteen centuries. It is a universal pilgrim destination and a Marian temple par excellence. A global place of prayer an worship, it is a unique portal to the past. Of all the major basilicas in Rome, it is the only one to preserve its original structure. Its sacristy contains treasures of inestimable value. Arguably, it has some of the finest vestments in the world. 

The Basilica is best known for its many treasures, including mosaics of the nave and triumphal arch connecting the sanctuary that date back to the pontificate of Pope Sixtus III (432-440). The mosaics in the apse of the sanctuary were commissioned by Pope Nicholas IV (1288-1292). The cosmatesque floor of the nave and the gilded wooden ceiling are masterpieces. Other majestic works of art include the Nativity scene by Arnolfo di Cambio. Every single column, painting, and statue encompass centuries of artistic merit, devotion, and religious fervor. 

The sublime travertine mantle that covers the front of the Basilica is the first sight visitors encounter as they arrive and enter -- the imposing facade, was conceived by the architect Ferdinando Fuga for the Jubilee Year 1750. In its upper loggia it houses mosaics that date from about 1290. Although this special area is closed to the public, it is possible to access through a VIP tour that includes a visit to the rooftop of the Basilica. 

Those who take this tour also visit the so-called 'Hall of Popes,' located just off the front loggia. This unique room houses some important vestments from the tesoro of the Basilica, a magnificent collection that has survived the centuries. These liturgical garments for use at the altar are made of the rarest of materials that include pure red, white, green, and violet silk. 

The vestments were made according to design techniques of their time, in seventeenth century Italy. That was a very advanced age in embroidery when that art was fostered with real gold and silk thread. Of special merit are the carefully designed coat-of-arms that reflect immense attention to detail and quality. 

One example that stands out is the depiction of the coat-of-arms of Scipione Cardinal Borghese, taken from his uncle Camillo Card. Borghese (Pope Paul V) -- seen on the green and violet chasubles. It is easily recognizable with a gold dragon surmounted by a black eagle. 

These precious vestment treasures are kept in two massive custom-made wooden vestment cabinets completed for the canons of the Basilica in 1628. Below are several images of the vestments. 

The room was designed by Pope Paul V (1605-1621) with a marble fireplace installed in 1605. The marble floor is the newest part, completed under the reign of Pope Paul VI in 1969. 

This room is the most representative of the architectural project that was commissioned by Paul V in the early 1600s when he had the palace built around the basilica for the exalted purpose of housing the canons who were senior priests of the Diocese of Rome. 

The architect chosen was Flaminio Ponzio, from Lombardy. The room is part of a large five-story palace plan where the canons continue to live today.  

The hall has paintings of illustrious personalities linked to the basilica over the centuries. These include cardinals such as Charles Borromeo who was once the Archpriest. There are also images of popes and members of the royal family of Spain who were devoted to the Basilica (the Spanish king remains to this day the "protocanon"). 

An elegant spiral staircase, off to the side, is attributed to Bernini. It connects the five levels of the palace with the sacristy below on the main level. Its form, made without columns, is reminiscent of a stretched shell while its lines follow an upward direction, symbolic of the path from earth to heaven, from darkness to light. 

We hope visitors will enjoy the photos and rare glimpse of filigree tracery in gold and silver wire, emanating a distinguished shine that has not tarnished through the centuries.  

Detail of vestment set
Detail of dalmatic
Glimpse of golden tool work
Vestment details
Chasuble of Scipione Card Borghese
Arms of Scipione Card Borghese
Arms of Scipione Card Borghese
Vestment display
Vestment display 
Vestment cabinet
Vestment cabinet
Dedication of vestment cabinet
Vestment cabinet
The two vestment cabinets
Entrance to the room from the front loggia
The fireplace by Paul V
The floor by Paul VI
The staircase by Bernini
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