The Chasuble of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese from the Gesù in Rome

The Chasuble of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese is dated to circa 1575-1589 and is located within the famed church of the Gesù in Rome. (Do note that neither he, nor the chasuble, should not be confused with another, arguably more famous 'Farnese chasuble,' that of Cardinal Odoardo Farnese, found in the treasury of the Cathedral of Florence.) This particular Cardinal Farnese lived from 1529-1589, dying in his 68th year. Despite his relatively modest lifespan (at least by contemporary standards) he accomplished a great deal over the course of his life, including holding many important and influential posts within the Church, completing restorations to the Gesù and he is also remembered for having amassed the greatest private collection of antique Roman sculpture ever amassed. A true Renaissance man at heart.

Turning our attention to his chasuble however, this particular chasuble seems to have been possibly trimmed down at some point in its history, as the central orphrey appears to have been 'cropped' at the top (one can still make out the legs of the figures near the neckline). That said, the remaining designs found outside of the orphrey seem to be complete and intended for a chasuble of this general shape. While it is often tempting to consider orphreys like this as re-purposed, it would seem that isn't the case here given that the style and the materials for the rest of the chasuble are entirely consistent with those of the orphrey. This suggests they were produced at one and the same time and by the same workshop.  Of course, it is possible that it was simply repaired and possibly shortened at the neckline/shoulders at some point  -- but suffice it to say this is pure speculation. Overall, my sense is that this chasuble is true to its primary, original design.

A closer look at the orphrey reveals the very subtle inclusion of the cardinalatial stemma of Cardinal Farnese, made of a shield with six fleur-de-lys while also employing the lesser number of tassels that was common at this period of ecclesiastical history. 

The chasuble also includes various scenes and symbols associated with the life of the Blessed Virgin Mary, such as angels holding up the symbols of the Tower of Ivory and House of Gold -- titles found in the Litany of the Blessed Virgin Mary.  In that regard, and given the colourful, floriated nature of the design, along with the inclusion of fruits such as pomegranates, this leads me to believe that chasuble may well have been envisioned for use during Marian feasts in particular. 

Let's take a closer look at some of the details from the chasuble:











This is truly a stunning piece of liturgical art, incorporating many of the very best materials and techniques of the time -- materials and techniques which also happen to remain the very best even within our own time. Regrettably, works such as these are difficult to reproduce in our own time -- difficult, though not entirely impossible.

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