The Greeks of Venice

When one thinks of the fabled canals of Venice, what comes to mind? First and foremost, canals and gondolas of course. Second of all, a distinctive style of gothic architecture punctuated by Persian, Ottoman and arabic design influences.  Third, the more studied will also think of the silk textile industry of Venice. And of course, the Doges and the impressive basilica of San Marco. 

Venice is, of course, a place filled with impressively beautiful Latin rite Catholic churches. Everywhere you look they are there to be found, often with a dash of Byzantine artistic influence, whether in the domes or in the mosaics, and in the case of San Marco, you quite literally have Byzantium there -- the spoils of the fourth crusade which brought back innumerable treasures from Constantinople; many of the columns on and around San Marco come from Constantinople for example, as do the four great bronze horses that were placed on top of the facade of the basilica (though those seen there now are copies; the originals are located inside the building in order to protect them from the elements).  What's more, Venice was at one time a part of the Byzantine, or Eastern Roman, empire and after the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman's in the fifteenth century, many Greeks fled to Venice (as well as other places) to seek refuge and make a new home. 

Given all the history of the region, it should probably come as little surprise that the Greeks are, in fact, still there in Venice.  Proportionately smaller in umber of course, but there all the same. Still, it's not something most people probably even think about when thinking about Venice, so let's introduce here to you the Greeks of Venice. 

The Greeks of Venice are centred around their cathedral church of San Giorgio dei Greci, which is located reasonably close to the basilica of San Marco, in the Castello district of Venice. 

Interestingly though, part of the reason we may associate Venice with the East and Byzantium on the one hand, but not the Byzantine rite is because in point of fact, it was only in the 1500's that the use of the Byzantine rite was permitted in Venice and the construction of this church was authorized by the pope.  As such, while this church may appear to be a repurposed Latin rite church, it is not.  It was built specifically by and for the Greek community here. It has always been Greek. 

The iconostasis

The altar and its ciborium

The height of this community came after the fall of Constantinople, but dwindled when the Venetian republic fell and the modern Greek state was founded. Still, some remain, just as some still remain in Constantinople itself. But to really bring that reality to life, here are a few select images of today's Greeks shown in Venice, celebrating their rites within and without their beautiful church.

The cultural and artistic treasure that is Venice never ceases to amaze with its riches.

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